THE FIT AND THE FURIOUS
Have you ever experienced suit rage? Most men have been through it. It occurs when you pay your hard earned money for a new suit, only to discover later that it doesn’t sit properly on your body. It’s too tight in some spots and too loose in others. It is a common frustration amongst men and one that can be easily avoided by simply taking time to learn about how a suit fits. If there is one question we get asked more than any other here at The Man in Charge and throughout the entire Ron Bennett family, it would be this:
What is the difference between style and fit?
Many men make the mistake that style and fit mean the same thing. In truth they are two separate entities in menswear. Style is all about silhouette. Suits have a variety of silhouettes which range from structured to soft. The variation depends mostly on the canvas used to make the suit jacket. A structured suit will be made with a stiffer canvas to create a firm look and will usually include a fuller padded shoulder, while a softer silhouette will use a lighter, more subtle canvas and use thinner padding on the shoulder.
Fit is an entirely different beast and is determined by how the garment sits on your specific body shape. Because men come in all shapes and sizes, determining the perfect suit fit can often be a complex endeavor, but there are several rules we use when we are fitting our suits. Here's the basics:
A: Around the sleeve head and collar there should be no wrinkles, folds or indentations. The jacket should sit hugging your shoulder in a firm manner.
B: The sleeves need to be a proper width. Many suits have naturally wide sleeves that may need to be tailored-in to a slimmer width. This creates a more streamlined, sleek look.
C: When the suit wearer is standing in a comfortable, natural stance, there should be no ripples on the sleeves. They should end just above your wrists, allowing the shirt cuff to be shown slightly below this point.
D: The jacket should consist completely of clean, straight lines and be balanced without any unnecessary folds or creases. The button area should do up in a firm, comfortable manner without any pulling or stretching. The rear vents should remain closed without showing any stretch or gaping.
E: Pants should rise just above the top of your shoes and fall comfortably down your leg without tightness or excessive bagginess. This creates a sharp, clean look.
Once you understand the basics of fit, you are free to explore the wide and wonderful world of suit style, where you can experiment with the many variations of silhouette to create your own distinct look. That way, you will never have to experience the dreaded suit rage again.
Find your own individual suit style and stop the suit rage today.